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Day 6 & 7: Just more relaxation

The whole point of this trip is relaxation. So I have absolutely no problem telling you that we did just that.

Day 6: We spent the whole of the morning in the Atlas Mountains, by the pool. The funniest part was when I went to get changed at the poolside showers and I overheard a group of Americans having an orientation talk. They were quite clearly on a yoga retreat. Their guide explained that there was a Berber village nearby, which they were welcome to walk to. It was a working village with a school and shop but “just to let you know, there is no KFC or anything like that”. I nearly died laughing. In the afternoon, we transferred back to Marrakesh.

Day 7: Neither Phil nor I had any motivation to leave the hotel today (possibly owing tummy upsets, which is quite common - I’m going to blame the poolside Sorbet/Ice cream). We spent the day by the pool, reading and relaxing. We were able to keep our room until 17:00, when the driver came to collect us to take us to the airport, so we were able to shower and change before the flight. Annoyingly (and typically), the driver bought an “orientation guide” with him, who took us from the car to the check-in desk and onward to the security gate. Tips are expected in Morocco but part of me objects to tipping for services you don’t really need/request (don’t get me wrong, of course we tipped him!).

We upgraded the return flight between Marrakesh and Gatwick because it was so cramped on the way out and, after all, this is our anniversary trip and we wanted some champagne. Because we upgraded at the airport there wasn’t a meal for us, but we got some BA M&S food for free and, of course, express security, lounge access, hot towels, free snacks and drinks.. We landed at 23:30 and went straight to the Bloc Hotel for a few hours sleep.

Day 8: We took the red-eye flight back to Jersey and then I went straight to the office….booo hisss. Back to Earth with a bump.

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Day 5: Let’s go for a Hike.. She said...

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Day 5: Let’s go for a Hike.. She said...

It’ll be fun.. She said.

Famous last words..

We woke up early as Carol-Ann had arranged for us to go for a pleasant short 2-3 hour hike to a local Berber village to experience an authentic Moroccan tea ceremony…

We met our guide (Akmed) at 9:30. He was from another local village called Fatima. He’d hiked around where we were staying for over 10 years and had climbed to the peak of Toubkal (the highest peak in Morocco and North Africa at 4,167m) over 10 times… I think our definitions of a gentle hike were about to be very obviously different.

To be fair the scenary was amazing. I was picking out bits of single track that I would love to ride left, right and centre, but I was also that I’d rather do it in the winter and not at this time of year - the temperature at 9:30 was already 28 degrees.

The first real interesting sight we saw on our hike were some goats - naturally Carol-Ann got very excited, I would show you some pictures but I was stopped by the female shepherd (shepherdess, shepherdette..?) that I’d have to pay her for a picture! Erm no thanks.

The hike involved some very interesting routes. Put it this way, I reckon we were probably the only people to have walked this route this week, it was that random.

After about 2 hours and a few stops for Carol-Ann (she had now realised the error of her ways in organising a hike) we arrived at the Berber village. We were shown into a room of the small homestay where there were a couple of makeshift tables put together and some glasses and a fairly standard metal teapot.

The father of the family came in and said hello, but didn’t speak any English at all so Akmed translated. He asked where we were from and that was about it.

His daughter brought in some freshly baked flat breads with some apricot jam and olive oil for us to eat. Somehow it seemed to the father and Akmed that I was about to eat with my left hand (big no-no is Arabic cultures) and a comment/joke was made about it. Carol-Ann thought the father insulted me but I’m not convinced - when you see her ask her about it… But after a brief joke the Tea ceremony started. We’d had authentic tea ceremonies in Japan. This was not one of those. An old metal kettle was brought in along with a mini propane gas tank with a burner attached on top. The water was boiled and then a small amount was poured into the other metal teapot, swirled around and thrown out. Then some tea leaves were added to the empty kettle, along with some mint leaves and finally what could only be described as a rock of sugar. Not one of those cute sugar rocks you get in restaurants, this was the size of a tennis ball! Then the water went in and the teapot placed back on the gas bottle to boil again.

After a few minutes of boiling the tea was ready, well almost. It had to be poured into a glass then the glass emptied back into the teapot about a dozen times, before being served to us. There was no pomp and ceremony like Japanese tea ceremonies. I probably had more of a ceremony making tea at home.. But it did taste good.

After about 20 minutes or so it was time to leave. We headed out of the village and Akmed told us we’d take a short cut back as by this time it was 11am and getting seriously hot. Only problem was the shortcut was also the most direct - ie straight line up and down, no tree cover (which we did benefit from on the way up)

To be fair, it was shorter. Not sure how much though. By the time we’d got back it was 1pm and we were toast from the heat. Literally. I did ask Carol-Ann a few times on the way back if she still thought a hike was a good idea. She didn’t see the funny side.

You can check out a short video overlay of the fun here… https://www.relive.cc/view/vRO7dRjp5K6

When we got back to the hotel we went straight for a nice cold shower and then into the freezing swimming pool.

Then we sat under the trees next to the pool. And didn’t move. Until it was time to eat.

At dinner we went with the usual format of going straight to mains - something about the heat really hits your appetite.. Carol-Ann picked up on the fact that when taking our order the waiter asked for our room number - standard - but then as he did so the head waiter was walking past and told the first waiter which room number we were in. I thought nothing of it - just assumed we were recognisable/memorable.. Carol-Ann thought otherwise. When it came to dessert, I had my eye on a chocolate noisette number and Carol-Ann wanted a Mango panancotta.. We didn’t get them. To be fair it was really nice of them to make us a small cake, with 2 candles on. And wish us happy anniversary.

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Day 3 & 4: A tale of two swimming pools

Day 3:

Today we relaxed by the pool all morning, had a long lazy lunch at the hotel restaurant and then returned to our relaxing, this time on the roof garden (because our poolside seats had been stolen over lunch by another couple - they just swooped in as we stood up, no ceremony, just nicked our chairs! - not that I’m annoyed - the roof garden was lovely, if not a little “urban” in its ambiance). The pool has jazz music and is crowded. The roof terrace lacks Jazz but has huge comfy day beds and is very private - we were the only ones up there.

Day 4:

Today we woke up early and transferred to the Atlas Mountains. It’s very different to Marakesh. It’s just stunning, the views are amazing and the hotel, Kasbah Bab Ourika, is so spacious. You feel a sense of calm tranquility up here (admittedly we are only at 900m so “up here” isn’t high enough to be colder). After breakfast “with a view”, we checked in to our very spacious suite and headed to the pool. The pool is cold but that’s just fine (for me at least…Phil is less enthusiastic). It’s so hot here, the cool water is perfect. There is an eery quietness at the pool, all the guests whisper, so as not to disturb the others.

We had lunch in the resturant and headed back to the room for some shade in the afternoon. Whilst at lunch we noticed that some of the other clientele seem to be discerning travellers. Conversation from the table next to us drifted by and we captured a reference to (in their words), “those NW3 people”. That has got to go down as the quote of the trip! It was so fascinating, listening to them, that I might start watching Made in Chelsea just to hear a few more nuggets.

So to compare and contrast:

Marrakesh Pool - French couple stole our chairs, cool jazz music, mature garden with palms, urban roof terrace with comfy day beds.

Atlas Mountains Pool - Rar’s from Chelsea were fantastic entertainment, quiet but relaxed, lush tropical gardens with orange groves, olive groves and cacti.

- Hippie -

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Day 2 - History and shopping

Today we met our guide and driver after breakfast for a full day of touring.

First, we drove out of the Medina to the new city of Marrakesh, for a driving tour of the surrounding area. We saw the new imperial palace, the Royal opera house, modern malls and housing. Our guide wanted us to understand the old and the new sides to Marrakesh.

Returning to the old, the next stop was Koutoubia Minaret with its orange groves, waterways and fountains. We saw some curious men in coloured dress and hats and were told that these were traditional water carriers (but they don’t need to carry water to Marrakesh anymore so they are just a tourist attraction). I guess they are the equivalent of our Beefeaters… but Beefeaters still have some sort of function, don’t they?

Next was the Saadien Tombs to see the resting place of the Saltans. The tombs are beautiful, decorated with marble, intricately carved plaster and Zelig mosaic made from glazed tiles. You have to go through a little narrow walk way to get in. Interesting story about that… the rulers who succeeded the Saltans (the Alaouites) feared the love the population had for the Saltans and so they built a huge wall around the tombs to ensure they did not become a focus for dissent.

Onwards to the Bahia Palace. The palace is, well, a palace, with large courtyards, gardens and pools and pavilions. To be honest the most interesting part was the ceiling decorations and the mosaics. It was a gallery of intricate mosaic artwork and carvings. A real testaments to the craftsmanship of the time.

Next was the Jewish quarter and the Synagogue Salat Al Moussa. This was a tiny little Synagogue with a central courtyard, music room, prayer room and school. I was fascinated by the history and plight of the Moroccan Jews, refugees of the Spanish Inquisition.

Moving on, we visited the Kasbar and were taken to a traditional carpet weaving workshop. I managed to offend the shop keeper by saying that I did not want to buy a carpet pretty early on in the tour and we were all kicked out of the shop! I felt really bad. At this point our guide thought it best we stop for lunch.

After lunch we explored the Souqs. A maze of little walkways and tunnels with hundreds of tiny workshops lining the paths. We visited the dying quarter, iron quarter, lamp makers, wood workers, pottery quarter… the list goes on. We were introduced to the business owners of each of the establishments we visited and we were shown the processes and techniques they use to make their merchandise. I tried to be restrained but there were just so many beautiful products and I am rubbish at bartering, so I spent half out holiday budget in a day! My favourite shop was the lamp makers just for the shear skill they demonstrated. It was a pretty amazing afternoon.

The tour ended at the heart of the Medina, Djema El Fna, a night market and bazaar hosting snake charmers, musicians, jugglers and fortune tellers. Things were only just getting ready for the evening event when we arrived so there wasn’t a lot to see. We will definitly have to wonder back there tomorrow or on our last night. I don’t think Phil was very impressed by the snakes!

- Hippie -

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Day 1: Travel and arrival

Today was quite stressful. Not because of the travelling per se, it’s just that I had a lot of work-things to get done at Gatwick and we were delayed leaving Jersey. As soon as I closed the laptop at 14:30 I was ready for a holiday. It’s just been a bit manic this last week and I can feel myself wound up like a spring “bracing for impact”.

Marrakesh airport is very cool. It’s modern, airy and eco-friendly (which strikes me as nuts give that it’s an airport!!). We were met by a guide and driver and taken to our hotel in the Medina. Medina means old town, its a walled city with 800,000 residents. Winding little backstreets and cars, mopeds and bikes wizzing everywhere. Our hotel (or Riad), Les Jardins De La Medina, is a welcome retreat from the hustle and bustle beyond its walls. It has traditional Moroccan architecture where all the rooms look into a central garden courtyard. The mature garden is lush with towering palms, orange trees and some of the largest umbrella plants I’ve ever seen. Lit with Morroccan lamps and candles, you feel like you’ve stepped back in time.

Our room is a little disappointing compared to the rest of the hotel. It’s a little tired and shabby but spacious nonetheless. We have easy access to the roof terrace and a balcony where we can sit out.

After a quick refresh, we headed down to dinner and our first taste of Moroccan cuisine. YUM! I want all of the Tagine.

- Hippie -

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